F/W11 Arrival Selections

A selection from the first of the F/W11 shipments.

M.A+ JP Extended Aviator
Layer-0 Canvas Pant
Layer-0 Cordovan 2.0 Boots

Layer-0 Dry Jersey Blazer
MarvieLab Slim S Trouser
Layer-0 Cordovan 1.5 Boots
M.A+ Large Spy Accordion Bag

MarvieLab Cashmere/Milk Reversible M Shirt
MarvieLab Slim L Trouser
Layer-0 Cordovan 1.5 Boots
M.A+ Extra Large Vachetta Accordion Bag
M.A+ Medium Spy Accordion Bag

Layer-0 Heavy Gauge Knit Coat
M.A+ Diagonal Fly Double Hook Slim Pant

Layer-0 F/W11: Discoveries And Second Chances

With the fall/winter deliveries now in full swing, it greatly pleases us to announce the second shipment of Avantindietro_Field and Layer-0 footwear has arrived. This season is full of cordovan leather and affords several chances to seize items, which were opportunities missed for many.
The uniquely-treated materials used in the Avantindietro_Field project have spent years buried in a tobacco field adjacent to the workshop where the original Carpe Diem line was produced, and are in extremely limited supply.

Second Chances for missed opportunities:

We have been granted the opportunity to extend a second chance to own these pieces. This time we see the inclusion of model/composition combinations done exclusively for Sartorialoft. The mid-height boots, in their design, combine the minimalist, curved lines of the original Avantindietro models with a substantial, rugged construction of the sole and heel. They are executed in aged deerskin, which can be deemed the stock leather used in the Avantindietro_Field project. The pairing of leathers with the derbies and tall boots are what make the second run particularly noteworthy.

The derbies have been executed in the buried horse leather. There is a readily evident dichotomy to the hand of the aged horsehide which has a dry hand though it has been treated to an effect of a deep patina with a finish reminiscent of waxing, despite being a quality of the leather itself rather than surface treatment. There is substantial depth in color, while the tactile experience is one of contradiction.

The tall boot have been produced in a deep green sheepskin that is of substantial weight, uncharacteristic of that which is commonly introduced to consumers. A heavily textured property has been achieved through the burial process, which is highlighted in creases of the skin through Alessio's treatments.

The textural quality of the heavy lambskin manifests itself in a network of deep furrows without compromise to the integrity of the tensile strength and highlights the shaft as if it were a captured moment of some dynamic transition, breathing new life into the design and underscoring the dramatic role material selection plays in the creation of a piece.

In addition to these rare, worldwide exclusive models of AV_Field, we are proud to offer a another opportunity to secure Altieri's Horween cordovan Avantindietro derby, for which we know of a mere singular pair to be made available beyond our walls. This model, which features a design improvement of the heel for the original Avantindietro project and remains the pinnacle in the realisation of the advanced concepts nurtured by Altieri.

The entire Layer-0 shipment is brought with material selections of the highest order.  All the footwear offered is constructed from Cordovan hides sourced from Horween and Guidi. It is also evident that the recent collaboration with Maurizio Altieri seems to have had a profound effect on Alessio's creative endeavors and apparent creative direction.

For fans of Carpe Diem, the Layer-0 delivery brings a welcome surprise in the form of the 2.0 boot, which is a splendid interpretation of a rarely-seen Continues model that we have always favoured highly. The shaft height of this layer-0 offering is further modified to specifications as set forth by Sartorialoft, which we feel to be an exponential improvement of this design.

Another style making an appearance in the layer-0 delivery is the derby, a classic silhouette constructed by the same artisans that once brought us Carpe Diem footwear.

There has been much speculation surrounding the new 1.5 boot design being introduced this season, as it stands apart from Layer-0 models seen up to this point, showcasing the designer’s continuously-evolving vision. Many have wondered if the recent collaborations with Maurizio Altieri would have an effect on the creative direction of layer-0. With the 1.5 boot’s silhouette being a radical departure from Alessio’s work seen up to this point, the source of inspiration behind this particular design has become a subject of much interest and ongoing debate.

by Q. Andrisson
   & David Choi

M.A+ F/W 2011: First Shipment

Double Fold Shoe

 Focus: Footwear
The first shipment of the m.a+ F/W11 season has arrived and we are excited to present the unveiling of Amadei's new footwear. Along with the new designs, we see an overhaul in the construction of the shoe's interior. The inner sole now features a contoured heel, which offers added comfort to pad the wearer's peds. The presentation also sees further elaboration in Amadei's approach to single piece leather fabrication. As seen in the "Double Fold Shoe", the leather is folded and stitched in an origami-esque manner, that has become a signature feature of Amadei's workings with skins. This new design reveals the creation of a gusset on either side, which form the tongue in the upper.

The diagonal line created by the folds provide a point of demarcation, lending visual weight beyond the toebox as well as continuity to the design elements seen in the clothing articles in the m.a+ arsenal.

The gussets in the double fold shoe are executed flawlessly without impeding upon the slim and sleek silhouette, as seen above.

Suture Stitch Shoe

The "Side Lace" Shoe. Here is a model that was slated to be revealed a couple of seasons back. We felt that the work was ready at the time, but Maurizio was quite unhappy with the lacing system, which he felt needed some improvement. So the piece was pulled from the offerings until such time that he felt it was completed in every respect. We appreciate Maurizio's dedication to both his vision and to the end wearer. So with the lacing system improved, we see it surface for the season and we at Sartorialoft are swooning over the unrivaled beauty in the unmistakable identifier that is seen in the hand-stitched anchor work.

This model is particularly exciting as with the presentation of the diagonal side lace shoe, we do not see a mere new offering of footwear, but an expounding upon of the "second skin" principles developed in the Continues movement. Here, a seamless front view likens the leather to the second skin concept which envelops the foot as one and is then fastened by a system reminiscent to hidden sutures. A well conceived development of the digital stitching seen in the progressive project "Sartoria", which was spear-headed by the team of Altieri and Amadei.

One-Piece Derby

And of course, the classic one piece derby. A staple piece of timeless design.

Avantindietro_Field Unearthed...

..and apparently so has the secret AV_Field link. We didn't anticipate the viral dissemination of directions to this page. As such, we are providing the selection of images here on Insight, for easy viewing. We request that those privy to links (now and future) keep navigation points to secret pages confidential.

In’es’terno: Inside the Outside

Mariavittoria Sargentini prepares her presentation, appending the new in’es’terno (translated: in’ex’terior) articles to the foundation of her collections with calculated precision. The offerings solemnly suspended in a series of flowing wave paths along the spine of an abstracted iron sculpture, which Sargentini had designed herself. It is an austere presentation that embodies the spirit of the designer and her work. Click here to read more at Scoute..

MarvieLab 2011-12

Marvielab: A laboratory furthering the development of thoughtfully compartmentalized modular systems. And at the helm is Mariavittoria Sargentini, who has produced a body of work that prompts one to consider and re-evaluate the very nature of clothing itself. Her work is a doorway to possibilities. A passage that has been waiting for open minds to venture through, towards the discovery of beauty at its core on a fundamental level. So find your keys and indulge yourself in a dialogue covering a process of perpetual refinement and the tireless pursuit to rend from the final article, all that can be deemed superfluous. 

With the introduction of in'es'terno, we see fully reversible jackets, offered in dual-face, closed seam construction of distinct fabric and color combinations that grant the end user a vast array of unique representations. The fabrics range from substantial to airy. My personal favorite of the fabrics being a coarsely textured weighty wool/linen of infinite refinement. A material selection that reflects her pedigree and a reminder of the important role fabrics play in material compositions. Utilized as a shell that molds to the body like clay, here we see Mariavittoria’s very different philosophy expressed. Case in point: the new slim version of the S jacket, which imprints the shape of the wearer's body. The garment’s design is approached with careful consideration of the human form, which allows it to acquiesce to the individual’s anatomical realities and bend to the will of the wearer.  The pieces effectively conform to the many facets of the wearer, such that it is no longer exclusive in identity, but subordinated to the nature of self that is the individual. (Excerpt from the forthcoming commentary on Marvielab written for Scoute)

This dynamic between wearer and article had been met with an aesthetic shift from the original. The collaboration manifests a tweaked version of the new and already "destined to be classic" in'es'terno slim S jacket. This advanced run also sees fabrication in the hands of a master tailor.

The shell is a stunning material composed of tightly woven, heavy wool and linen yarns. It has a grainy hand that presents itself a polished suiting fabric. Unrivaled seam work with pockets falling within the twisting lines provide a streamlined product without compromise of function. 

The center back seam is accompanied by twisting darts that provide dynamic movement of lines in the profile of the jacket where the front angled seams and rear darts converge at the raised arm hole.

Mariavittoria had selected her fabrics to deliver polarized textural and color contrasts. The material pairings we have selected, create unique double faced articles that showcase her skills and moreover, set themselves as reminders of what makes the work that inspire us forever relevant.

Primordial Bliss

The works of John Colao

Original Works on Paper:

Untitled_001:  Tar on handmade paper - 291/2x211/2"  framed:  33x26" 
signed and dated on verso

Untitled_007:  Tar on handmade paper - 291/2x211/2"  framed:  33x26" 
signed and dated on verso

Please contact info@sartorialoft.com for more information

Label Under Construction SS11

The second shipment of Label Under Construction's S/S 2011 collection has arrived and we are very proud to share images of some of the most beautiful pieces that Luca has released yet. We are overjoyed at the opportunity to present these select articles from our shipments, which include knits featuring a very special, batch production run, of a "heavy" silk screening process. A fusion of two  creative mediums that serves to elevate Luca's work by way of palpable delineation providing a visual euphony that gives pause.

First is the dual layer, side panel shirt with the finest silk screening work he has produced to date. Constructed of cotton, this dual front panel knit provides a slim fit with the second layer draping to provide a relaxed look while maintaining a fitted silhouette.

The meticulous screen printing applied to the complex seam work highlights one of the greatest strengths of Label Under Construction. An exemplary piece to be sure.

The double front, silk screened, torsion knit. This is a selection from the project in which Luca had utilized yarns of Z and S twisted yarns to create opposing torsion panels. The knits were developed by carrying over this concept into the flat (2D) designs of the shirts as well. It is a project that rendered some interesting forms. The double front torsion presented below is easily the most successful of the project, both for its interesting form and its pragmatic approach to the overall piece as a wearable article.

The knit is constructed from multiple angular panels that form an asymmetric form that still flows. As with the other torsion articles, we see seam placement playing a major role in the overall effect.

The silk screening process in the torsion knit is an imperative as it places emphasis on the directional coiling of the yarns and the opposing ZS placement.
The reason we favor this piece in particular is the fluid movement, sans the stark angular disproportions that manifest in the silhouette of the other articles hailing from this quixotically conceptual series.
The trapezium shoulder knit boasts a dynamic print, at times, closely resembling a wood grain. There is a very organic energy imbued in the print that runs throughout the one piece front panel (through shoulder) construction.

The print carries through the back portion of the knit which is contrasted by the divergent elements of the over-dyed, name sake, trapezium panel and signature silk screened major arc below the collar line.

Graphite dyed, hooked slim pant. This slim fitting pant has a beautiful silhouette, sharp lines and marvelous details.

 The fabric has been laboriously worked over with the hooking process that has produced great effect in his knit wear. Luca's inference of its effect on woven fabrics is met with great reward. The tactile as well as visual experience that the textile provides is one that I can only call a unique encounter, for lack of better words.

The rear pockets are exquisitely situated between two darts which frame the setting with front pockets sitting in the vertical outer seam line (as seen in the series of images of the graphite dyed, notched cotton fabric proceeding the hooked cotton).

The slim pant in slub notched cotton. The following images can be used as reference of shape and construction details to the slim hooked pants as well.