F/W11 Arrival Selections

A selection from the first of the F/W11 shipments.

M.A+ JP Extended Aviator
Layer-0 Canvas Pant
Layer-0 Cordovan 2.0 Boots

Layer-0 Dry Jersey Blazer
MarvieLab Slim S Trouser
Layer-0 Cordovan 1.5 Boots
M.A+ Large Spy Accordion Bag

MarvieLab Cashmere/Milk Reversible M Shirt
MarvieLab Slim L Trouser
Layer-0 Cordovan 1.5 Boots
M.A+ Extra Large Vachetta Accordion Bag
M.A+ Medium Spy Accordion Bag

Layer-0 Heavy Gauge Knit Coat
M.A+ Diagonal Fly Double Hook Slim Pant

Layer-0 F/W11: Discoveries And Second Chances

With the fall/winter deliveries now in full swing, it greatly pleases us to announce the second shipment of Avantindietro_Field and Layer-0 footwear has arrived. This season is full of cordovan leather and affords several chances to seize items, which were opportunities missed for many.
The uniquely-treated materials used in the Avantindietro_Field project have spent years buried in a tobacco field adjacent to the workshop where the original Carpe Diem line was produced, and are in extremely limited supply.

Second Chances for missed opportunities:

We have been granted the opportunity to extend a second chance to own these pieces. This time we see the inclusion of model/composition combinations done exclusively for Sartorialoft. The mid-height boots, in their design, combine the minimalist, curved lines of the original Avantindietro models with a substantial, rugged construction of the sole and heel. They are executed in aged deerskin, which can be deemed the stock leather used in the Avantindietro_Field project. The pairing of leathers with the derbies and tall boots are what make the second run particularly noteworthy.

The derbies have been executed in the buried horse leather. There is a readily evident dichotomy to the hand of the aged horsehide which has a dry hand though it has been treated to an effect of a deep patina with a finish reminiscent of waxing, despite being a quality of the leather itself rather than surface treatment. There is substantial depth in color, while the tactile experience is one of contradiction.

The tall boot have been produced in a deep green sheepskin that is of substantial weight, uncharacteristic of that which is commonly introduced to consumers. A heavily textured property has been achieved through the burial process, which is highlighted in creases of the skin through Alessio's treatments.

The textural quality of the heavy lambskin manifests itself in a network of deep furrows without compromise to the integrity of the tensile strength and highlights the shaft as if it were a captured moment of some dynamic transition, breathing new life into the design and underscoring the dramatic role material selection plays in the creation of a piece.

In addition to these rare, worldwide exclusive models of AV_Field, we are proud to offer a another opportunity to secure Altieri's Horween cordovan Avantindietro derby, for which we know of a mere singular pair to be made available beyond our walls. This model, which features a design improvement of the heel for the original Avantindietro project and remains the pinnacle in the realisation of the advanced concepts nurtured by Altieri.

The entire Layer-0 shipment is brought with material selections of the highest order.  All the footwear offered is constructed from Cordovan hides sourced from Horween and Guidi. It is also evident that the recent collaboration with Maurizio Altieri seems to have had a profound effect on Alessio's creative endeavors and apparent creative direction.

For fans of Carpe Diem, the Layer-0 delivery brings a welcome surprise in the form of the 2.0 boot, which is a splendid interpretation of a rarely-seen Continues model that we have always favoured highly. The shaft height of this layer-0 offering is further modified to specifications as set forth by Sartorialoft, which we feel to be an exponential improvement of this design.

Another style making an appearance in the layer-0 delivery is the derby, a classic silhouette constructed by the same artisans that once brought us Carpe Diem footwear.

There has been much speculation surrounding the new 1.5 boot design being introduced this season, as it stands apart from Layer-0 models seen up to this point, showcasing the designer’s continuously-evolving vision. Many have wondered if the recent collaborations with Maurizio Altieri would have an effect on the creative direction of layer-0. With the 1.5 boot’s silhouette being a radical departure from Alessio’s work seen up to this point, the source of inspiration behind this particular design has become a subject of much interest and ongoing debate.

by Q. Andrisson
   & David Choi

M.A+ F/W 2011: First Shipment

Double Fold Shoe

 Focus: Footwear
The first shipment of the m.a+ F/W11 season has arrived and we are excited to present the unveiling of Amadei's new footwear. Along with the new designs, we see an overhaul in the construction of the shoe's interior. The inner sole now features a contoured heel, which offers added comfort to pad the wearer's peds. The presentation also sees further elaboration in Amadei's approach to single piece leather fabrication. As seen in the "Double Fold Shoe", the leather is folded and stitched in an origami-esque manner, that has become a signature feature of Amadei's workings with skins. This new design reveals the creation of a gusset on either side, which form the tongue in the upper.

The diagonal line created by the folds provide a point of demarcation, lending visual weight beyond the toebox as well as continuity to the design elements seen in the clothing articles in the m.a+ arsenal.

The gussets in the double fold shoe are executed flawlessly without impeding upon the slim and sleek silhouette, as seen above.

Suture Stitch Shoe

The "Side Lace" Shoe. Here is a model that was slated to be revealed a couple of seasons back. We felt that the work was ready at the time, but Maurizio was quite unhappy with the lacing system, which he felt needed some improvement. So the piece was pulled from the offerings until such time that he felt it was completed in every respect. We appreciate Maurizio's dedication to both his vision and to the end wearer. So with the lacing system improved, we see it surface for the season and we at Sartorialoft are swooning over the unrivaled beauty in the unmistakable identifier that is seen in the hand-stitched anchor work.

This model is particularly exciting as with the presentation of the diagonal side lace shoe, we do not see a mere new offering of footwear, but an expounding upon of the "second skin" principles developed in the Continues movement. Here, a seamless front view likens the leather to the second skin concept which envelops the foot as one and is then fastened by a system reminiscent to hidden sutures. A well conceived development of the digital stitching seen in the progressive project "Sartoria", which was spear-headed by the team of Altieri and Amadei.

One-Piece Derby

And of course, the classic one piece derby. A staple piece of timeless design.