InAisce S/S11

The S/S 2011 collection from InAisce had arrived at the door of Sartorialoft well in advance of schedule. We are very happy to receive this highly anticipated collection.

The Orchid Jacket

This piece is a pattern of complex construct with overextended french seams that show like a labyrinthine network of pathways floating around the wearer. The french seams are clean and quite pronounced, capitulating smoothly into a distinct pouch pocket design, that is quirky without feeling like a blustered push to reinvent the banal feature of the utilitarian component. The reverse sees raw edges that highlight the pattern, bringing a rough elegance to the piece. Couple this with details such as the slash pockets on the reverse falling within the seam line and you have a transposed garment that is given an entirely different demeanor. Available in a color that Jona has tagged "charred wood" in a composite of 100% cotton.

Dendrophylax Lindenii

The Dendrophylax Lindenii coat is a shining example of Jona's ability to produce exceptionally tailored pieces, but shows us his skill set in a way that is distinctly his own. The coat is very aggressive in its asymmetry, yet remains digestible in its aesthetic with features such as classic double venting. It is named after the Ghost Orchid which is an epiphyte and the coat wears the same way. Working its way around the wearer with unforced effort and binding itself with bark wood closures that are reminiscent of the ligneous root system that anchors the plant to its host form.
What is markedly striking about the article is the fabric that was developed for this piece. The texture is created by a very fine process where the weave is pintucked into itself in a recurrent series of diminutive horizontal lines. When the fabric is pushed into itself, it creates an interesting vertical bark-like texture. The appearance of the vertical ridge reaction created by the wearers form and their movement adds a whole new dimension to the intrinsic ridged effect of the pintucked fabric. This is the kind of textile experimentation, that when successful (as it is here) and applied with such a unique design perspective, work to sustain my optimism for designers seeking to elevate their works with originality and calculated precision. There is hope for the up and coming who possess vision. When in doubt, simply refer to the proof found here in this archive worthy coat.

In The Grove
In The Grove is a piece that embodies the direction of the collection as a whole, in a single piece. Hand dyed fabric with a single clasp, dual button closure for standing lapel option.

Stem Trousers/Knickers

The stem pants and stem knickers are a fun foray into textural changes. The trousers are aptly named with their slim fit and clear suspension of transition in the tactile variables. The stark demarcation seen in the raw seam work separating these textures is reflective of the resolute vision that clearly defines Jona's work.

 Basics with a subversive sensibility

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A Brief Overview

Since the inception of Label Under Construction, Luca Laurini has long since been refining his highly experimental techniques through rigorous exertion of trial and error. He has re-written the book on fabrication methodologies, which he founded upon the firm foundation of classic old-world principles. Though he keeps his eyes forward with un-stifled momentum propelling him, he consistently pays homage to the works preceding him. The works that helped shape his ideals and provides an understanding of his direction.

Now, with a mastery of the technical aspects of experimental knitting and fabrication, Luca leaps head first into the conceptual arena. Signals is the project that highlights his ability in this facet. As the name implies, he decides to utilize a form of language to impart his message in the articles themselves. He opted to use morse code which has an intrinsic minimalist beauty in its aesthetic value. Primitive yet sophisticated. A language that is simple without compromising the efficacy in its ability to convey a message clearly. One might argue that morse code is a somewhat obvious choice and to this I would be quick to agree. However it is not the incorporation of this system that makes it noteworthy, but what he builds upon it.

Morse code is a series of dashes and dots. Luca has used this crude system of communication to form a communion between the physical and the cerebral. A communion that is heavily evident in every facet throughout the garments and their designs; from the selection of fabric and yarns to the selection of poems, aphorisms. And true to form, he takes this venture for a dip in mathematical analysis. The capsule can be viewed from several viewpoints. Luca mentions the representation of the monochromatic scale as a field in which to set a familiar backdrop for the overlying message. My thoughts are drawn to the old movies where black and white was used so the viewer could easily discern the good guys from the bad. It is from this point that we see the appearance of decay and the induction of corrosion.

Corroded Graphite Dyed Double Layer Shirt
Here Luca plays with an open-ended notion of duality, obviously leaving much open to interpretation. The corrosion shirt features the letters used to spell corrosion in morse code. It is stripped with the application of chemicals that burn organic fibers leaving any synthetic materials unscathed. 
The base knit is a dry black with a second layer on the front panel which has been graphite dyed and etched with the acid. The eroded graphic sets atop the inner layer like a scar upon stained innocence. 

The first piece he shows to set the tone for the Signals presentation is the SOS arched shirt. 
As we all know, this universally recognized message is often relayed repeatedly as a cry for help in times of distress. The knit features the SOS signal repetitiously knit through the body. 

It is a very literal reference to the dark side of existence; the feeling of helplessness that is key in defining the human experience. 
The jacket: easily my favorite offering from this capsule collection. Here is a garment with spirit. Here he touches the other spectrum of life; the light of rebirth and the beauty of renewal. 

One can’t help but escape the idea that quoting Neitchze on an article of clothing is nothing short of self indulgent. This is one instance where the article wears the aphorism like a tattoo (etched into the fabric of the interior lining), expressing the reason for its existence. The central theme of this piece is “Everything goes, everything returns”. 

The pattern is based on an old World War jacket, and has been beautifully refined.
It features a deep pocket that runs the width of the back and was used by soldiers to keep rations. The closure system is of hand-crotched eye loop and the Signals Morse Button. 

It is large enough to keep a laptop (though not advised to do so) and the fabric is of salvaged military supplies, which possesses a beautiful, slubby finish while maintaining a very polished look. 

Also, received in our representation is the Talking Selvedge Trouser. 

The pattern is the original j-pant done in the japanese paper cotton material, with a representation of the selvedge code running the length of the twisting seam. 

The graphite dyed poem sweater.
An updated raglan style knit (reverse shown) which has been graphite dyed and features the text running the right half of the body, wrapping back to front. 

And the Alpha-Numeric Double Blanket/Poncho with morse code diagrams of alpha and numeric keys, respectively mapped out on each set piece. 
The two separate pieces are bound lengthwise by oversize buttons.

...approach this collection with an open mind seasoned with interest and peppered with a bit of romanticism. You'll find an endearing collection of garments..

Personal note...

As many of you know, I took a brief hiatus from the grind to make a trek to Italy. What a wondrous time I had, but that's another story to be shared. Upon my return the other day, I was very excited to see the second delivery of LUC, which arrived in my absence. I must say that I am nothing short of overjoyed at the arrival of the Japanese Paper anatomic J-Pants. So much so that it prompted me to share a bit of my initial reaction. Having been produced in extremely limited supply, this fabric is among my favorite to date for its unique properties. Endowed with elegance and at the same time tough as nails in temperament, these trousers are rugged and ready for whatever situation life can throw. The j-pants in this fabric are constructed in a subtle juxtaposition of grain directions from one leg to the next, it is a subtle reminder of the often overlooked attention to detail that many of the designers I favor exercise in their work. The pants are partially lined and offer great comfort to the wearer in this rigid fabric which will obviously take on its own life with repeated wear. Every pair is destined to come into its own and I am thrilled to be taking on this journey and see where the process of wear takes me. Here is an image (apologies in advance for the poor quality) of mine , sized up for absolute comfort in a very relaxed fit, as Luca rocks himself.

Image of in store F/W11 LUC.

M.A+ F/W 2010

Though some time has passed since members of the Carpe Diem collective went their separate ways, the work and the memory of it remain relevant in the landscape of today’s experimental menswear. This in no small part due to the emergent lines of its former contributors and the creative directions they have gone on to explore. In the case of Maurizio Amadei’s eponymous line, m.a+, that direction often comes across as an ongoing dialogue between form and function.

From its first seasons, Amadei’s work continues to distinguish itself through an apparent understanding of pattern work, anchoring and other aspects of sartorial engineering that are seldom matched, resulting in garments as innovative as they are imminently wearable.

Perhaps the best example of these ideas, brought together in a piece from this fall/winter season’s initial delivery, would be the pleated knee slim trouser pattern executed in a lightweight, polyurethane fused cotton and a heavy indigo-dyed denim respectively.

The denim boasts hand finished stitching details and solid silver accents. The distinctive pleated detail at the knee is placed on a curved seam, serving both as the anchoring point for the silhouette through the calf and a means of ventilation. This secondary function in particularly useful in the polyurethane-fused version of the trousers, as the material has an insulating quality despite its apparent lightness, lending to the garment a rarely-matched degree of year-round wearability. Also included in this delivery is an updated version of the classic 5-pocket pant design. This new iteration features a slimmer fit and is available in a light carbon-grey, heavy cotton, canvas fabric.

An assortment of leather offerings this season includes the washed ‘spy’ leather shirt-jacket, constructed of washed calf, which has been oil treated to impart a supple finish. A longer style of familiar, cashmere-lined ‘hand-sleeve’ gauntlets in smooth calfskin is complimented with an entirely new, short fingerless glove design. This one is an exercise in structured, anatomical construction utilizing panels of thick, heavy bison hide, assembled with their edges folded outward. The heavy grain of the leather is lovingly stained with layers of inky black.

A smoother, more pliable grade of bison leather serves as the material of choice for footwear and accessories in this delivery, featured to a full effect in the rear-zip high ankle boot, with the pronounced grooves of its texture lending a distinct quality to the classic m.a+ silhouette. A similar dyeing technique is employed here as well: the leather is repeatedly stained to achieve a deep, murky off-black color.

A new 8cm wallet has been received in vachetta, reversed vachetta and bison, as well as a limited run of said wallet with silver loop for chain attachment. This is a new iteration of the wallet, fitting between the existing small and medium sizes and perfect for U.S. currency, as the prior small model required folding of bills to accommodate them. The smaller wallet/card-holder has also been received in bison.

Several of Amadei’s highly wearable takes, on basic garments, round out the first delivery selection; including a sleek raglan-pattern “skivvy neck” long sleeve tee with a modified mock turtle collar, available in dark coal. And a linen button-down collared shirt with a hidden button placket detailing in the ‘light carbon’ colorway.

~Q. Andrisson

Animanifestare: Χρόνος F/W2010.11 Lookbook 1.7-L0

(collection notes: All footwear for the season has been done in materials exclusive to Sartorialoft. Leathers include calf from Guidi and horse from Horween. The canvas trousers are a worldwide introductory exclusive for the season)

Crushed Calf Kimono Cut High Collar Leather Jacket
Featuring a waxed cotton rib collar, also available in a very special winter weight exclusively for Sartorialoft, fabricated from an exquisite pig leather sourced from Guidi.


Kimono Cut Crushed Calf High Collar Leather Coat
The coat features full leather construction of the high collar.