Label Under Construction SS11

The second shipment of Label Under Construction's S/S 2011 collection has arrived and we are very proud to share images of some of the most beautiful pieces that Luca has released yet. We are overjoyed at the opportunity to present these select articles from our shipments, which include knits featuring a very special, batch production run, of a "heavy" silk screening process. A fusion of two  creative mediums that serves to elevate Luca's work by way of palpable delineation providing a visual euphony that gives pause.

First is the dual layer, side panel shirt with the finest silk screening work he has produced to date. Constructed of cotton, this dual front panel knit provides a slim fit with the second layer draping to provide a relaxed look while maintaining a fitted silhouette.

The meticulous screen printing applied to the complex seam work highlights one of the greatest strengths of Label Under Construction. An exemplary piece to be sure.

The double front, silk screened, torsion knit. This is a selection from the project in which Luca had utilized yarns of Z and S twisted yarns to create opposing torsion panels. The knits were developed by carrying over this concept into the flat (2D) designs of the shirts as well. It is a project that rendered some interesting forms. The double front torsion presented below is easily the most successful of the project, both for its interesting form and its pragmatic approach to the overall piece as a wearable article.

The knit is constructed from multiple angular panels that form an asymmetric form that still flows. As with the other torsion articles, we see seam placement playing a major role in the overall effect.

The silk screening process in the torsion knit is an imperative as it places emphasis on the directional coiling of the yarns and the opposing ZS placement.
The reason we favor this piece in particular is the fluid movement, sans the stark angular disproportions that manifest in the silhouette of the other articles hailing from this quixotically conceptual series.
The trapezium shoulder knit boasts a dynamic print, at times, closely resembling a wood grain. There is a very organic energy imbued in the print that runs throughout the one piece front panel (through shoulder) construction.

The print carries through the back portion of the knit which is contrasted by the divergent elements of the over-dyed, name sake, trapezium panel and signature silk screened major arc below the collar line.

Graphite dyed, hooked slim pant. This slim fitting pant has a beautiful silhouette, sharp lines and marvelous details.

 The fabric has been laboriously worked over with the hooking process that has produced great effect in his knit wear. Luca's inference of its effect on woven fabrics is met with great reward. The tactile as well as visual experience that the textile provides is one that I can only call a unique encounter, for lack of better words.

The rear pockets are exquisitely situated between two darts which frame the setting with front pockets sitting in the vertical outer seam line (as seen in the series of images of the graphite dyed, notched cotton fabric proceeding the hooked cotton).

The slim pant in slub notched cotton. The following images can be used as reference of shape and construction details to the slim hooked pants as well.


Layer-0 S/S 2011

Italy has long held its reputation as being amongst the greatest producers of footwear and is oft argued to be the best. It is in Italy, that Alessio recently formed his alliance with an artisan who strives to preserve the old world methods. A process of shoe making that is diminishing to the point of extinction and may soon be forever a thing of the past. X has refined distinct signature techniques over the years. If he does not find an apprentice, his legacy will be limited to his body of work. A body of work providing a view, a reflection, of a master who has honed his skills and developed unique methods of unmatched construction, which can be seen in (but not limited to) Carpe Diem, M.A+ and now in Layer-0.

We were fortunate to have our production fall in a window, where he was able to focus on fabrication, without the annoyance of an imposed deadline. Free from the burden of such concerns, we see an elevated methodology. Though every article he produces is executed with absolute attention to detail and a pouring of his heart into the pieces; there is something special to be seen when passion is unadulterated by any given unknown in an equation, which converts the process of love into labor. In his quest for efficiency in the process of hand making shoes, this craftsman has been known to sit with a hammer and a mouth full of nails. The danger of swallowing the steel spikes is imminent. It has happened before he says passively whilst producing the next nail from between his lips. It is this type of mad dedication that wins my respect. He goes on to the threading. The hairs of wild boars are bound by hand producing short threads, which are then individually knotted together, one after another until enough to bind the upper to the soles is produced. It is this abysmal affection for his calling that wins my adoration.

 Now in Layer-0, we see a new last and the stalwart hand applied to the rugged designs of Alessio Zero. The last from which the shoes are constructed is reminiscent of the work of Altieri. The leather for the toecap soaked, molded, pleated, trimmed and secured in a procedure of restrained increment: resulting in a rigid toe box without the aid of plastics or metals. A familiar elegance is manifest in Alessio’s expressly robust design sensibility and it is a noteworthy marriage. Alessio has also taken post production treatments to a new level (i.e. heavy application of liquid film along sole and upper baseline, which provides a beautiful effect that frays away with wear). Below is the exemplary selection of footwear we received, boasting the evolved silhouette of Layer-0 footwear including offerings in exclusive leathers. 

•White canvas over leather 1.6 ankle boot. Also available in black canvas over leather•

•Reverse calf 1.6 ankle boot•
•Horween crackled horse 1.6 boot•
•Guidi heavy pig leather 2.0 derby•

•Guidi smooth calf leather band derby. Available in red/brown (shown) and green/grey•