InAisce S/S11

The S/S 2011 collection from InAisce had arrived at the door of Sartorialoft well in advance of schedule. We are very happy to receive this highly anticipated collection.

The Orchid Jacket

This piece is a pattern of complex construct with overextended french seams that show like a labyrinthine network of pathways floating around the wearer. The french seams are clean and quite pronounced, capitulating smoothly into a distinct pouch pocket design, that is quirky without feeling like a blustered push to reinvent the banal feature of the utilitarian component. The reverse sees raw edges that highlight the pattern, bringing a rough elegance to the piece. Couple this with details such as the slash pockets on the reverse falling within the seam line and you have a transposed garment that is given an entirely different demeanor. Available in a color that Jona has tagged "charred wood" in a composite of 100% cotton.

Dendrophylax Lindenii

The Dendrophylax Lindenii coat is a shining example of Jona's ability to produce exceptionally tailored pieces, but shows us his skill set in a way that is distinctly his own. The coat is very aggressive in its asymmetry, yet remains digestible in its aesthetic with features such as classic double venting. It is named after the Ghost Orchid which is an epiphyte and the coat wears the same way. Working its way around the wearer with unforced effort and binding itself with bark wood closures that are reminiscent of the ligneous root system that anchors the plant to its host form.
What is markedly striking about the article is the fabric that was developed for this piece. The texture is created by a very fine process where the weave is pintucked into itself in a recurrent series of diminutive horizontal lines. When the fabric is pushed into itself, it creates an interesting vertical bark-like texture. The appearance of the vertical ridge reaction created by the wearers form and their movement adds a whole new dimension to the intrinsic ridged effect of the pintucked fabric. This is the kind of textile experimentation, that when successful (as it is here) and applied with such a unique design perspective, work to sustain my optimism for designers seeking to elevate their works with originality and calculated precision. There is hope for the up and coming who possess vision. When in doubt, simply refer to the proof found here in this archive worthy coat.

In The Grove
In The Grove is a piece that embodies the direction of the collection as a whole, in a single piece. Hand dyed fabric with a single clasp, dual button closure for standing lapel option.

Stem Trousers/Knickers

The stem pants and stem knickers are a fun foray into textural changes. The trousers are aptly named with their slim fit and clear suspension of transition in the tactile variables. The stark demarcation seen in the raw seam work separating these textures is reflective of the resolute vision that clearly defines Jona's work.

 Basics with a subversive sensibility

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