Since the inception of Label Under Construction, Luca Laurini has long since been refining his highly experimental techniques through rigorous exertion of trial and error. He has re-written the book on fabrication methodologies, which he founded upon the firm foundation of classic old-world principles. Though he keeps his eyes forward with un-stifled momentum propelling him, he consistently pays homage to the works preceding him. The works that helped shape his ideals and provides an understanding of his direction.
Now, with a mastery of the technical aspects of experimental knitting and fabrication, Luca leaps head first into the conceptual arena. Signals is the project that highlights his ability in this facet. As the name implies, he decides to utilize a form of language to impart his message in the articles themselves. He opted to use morse code which has an intrinsic minimalist beauty in its aesthetic value. Primitive yet sophisticated. A language that is simple without compromising the efficacy in its ability to convey a message clearly. One might argue that morse code is a somewhat obvious choice and to this I would be quick to agree. However it is not the incorporation of this system that makes it noteworthy, but what he builds upon it.
Morse code is a series of dashes and dots. Luca has used this crude system of communication to form a communion between the physical and the cerebral. A communion that is heavily evident in every facet throughout the garments and their designs; from the selection of fabric and yarns to the selection of poems, aphorisms. And true to form, he takes this venture for a dip in mathematical analysis. The capsule can be viewed from several viewpoints. Luca mentions the representation of the monochromatic scale as a field in which to set a familiar backdrop for the overlying message. My thoughts are drawn to the old movies where black and white was used so the viewer could easily discern the good guys from the bad. It is from this point that we see the appearance of decay and the induction of corrosion.
Corroded Graphite Dyed Double Layer Shirt
Here Luca plays with an open-ended notion of duality, obviously leaving much open to interpretation. The corrosion shirt features the letters used to spell corrosion in morse code. It is stripped with the application of chemicals that burn organic fibers leaving any synthetic materials unscathed.
The first piece he shows to set the tone for the Signals presentation is the SOS arched shirt.
It is a very literal reference to the dark side of existence; the feeling of helplessness that is key in defining the human experience.
The pattern is based on an old World War jacket, and has been beautifully refined.
It features a deep pocket that runs the width of the back and was used by soldiers to keep rations. The closure system is of hand-crotched eye loop and the Signals Morse Button.
It is large enough to keep a laptop (though not advised to do so) and the fabric is of salvaged military supplies, which possesses a beautiful, slubby finish while maintaining a very polished look.
The pattern is the original j-pant done in the japanese paper cotton material, with a representation of the selvedge code running the length of the twisting seam.
The graphite dyed poem sweater.
And the Alpha-Numeric Double Blanket/Poncho with morse code diagrams of alpha and numeric keys, respectively mapped out on each set piece.
...approach this collection with an open mind seasoned with interest and peppered with a bit of romanticism. You'll find an endearing collection of garments..