Sartorialoft

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The spirit of Klaus Lohmeyer is expressed in the work of his line Werkstatt:München. His primary focus is in the medium of precious metals, where all design aspects are crafted with tremendous consideration to balance, gauge and weight thus actualizing a sculpted piece of jewelry possessing a refined, yet categorically masculine form and energy. Amongst this collections offerings that exemplify the provincial qualities of times passed, that are unique to Lohmeyer's execution are the timeless signet ring, cufflinks, bowl and tray. There is an elegantly churlish charm expressed that no other smith can deliver.

Round Wound Ring

Hammered Signet Ring

Stamped Internal Rough Hammered Ring

Belt Bracelet

Half Forged Bracelet

Hidden Clasp Bracelet

Hook Lock Bangle

Punched Hook Lock Bangle

Button Cuff Links

Black Handknit Cashmere Cap

Graphite Handknit Moss Cashmere Cap

Hammered Bowl

Hammered Tray

Layer-0: A/W12.13

The old adage, "the only constant is change" holds ever true. This is a notion that Alessio Zero has fastened to and has done so with unrelenting fervor. Over the years, we have seen the evolution of this designer and his increasing, free-spirited willingness to experiment with lines, seam work and the manipulation of traditional tailoring stays. He has established his design style and his aesthetic possesses an easily discernible distinction, that has won him the position of spearheading Guidi's foray into garment's for the fairer gender.

The F/W 12.13 season, sees the emergence of Alessio's endogenous energies, exerted towards the infrastructure of the garments. A shift that has led to an abandoning of practicality, with the interpolating of materials selections, to counterintuitively create insulating properties to the annexed vestment. An example of such, is the case in point 3 button, horse leather jacket. Here modal is utilized as an intermediary layer between the horse hide and cotton, which is finished with hemp that has been knit into an openwork fabric as the linings final interface.

Three Button Horse Jacket

The jacket's obverse boasts a fluid 3 panel design, which has become a signature feature in his outerwear for the season.

The high neck caban is an exemplary piece showcasing Alessio's reductionist approach where logical pocket placement within the side seam creates a clean face. The same method used to create the interior trapping of the leather jacket is sustained.

This season, our collaboration with Layer-0 has yielded some of the finest footwear we have seen from Alessio, to date. The derbies and short boot have been fabricated with the use of cordovan which Alessio had been able to source from R. Guidi's personal archive of skins as well as from archived cordovan from the Horween tannery. The opportunity to acquire footwear made from this select material is one of dwindling likelihood in the future as we see the advent of chemical tanning processes. The shell cordovan presented here, has been vegetable tanned using the old world methodology, which is becoming increasingly scarce in its practice. So it is with elated enthusiasm that we present these exclusive offerings to the discerning epicureans.

Red Opaque Shell Cordovan Derbies

Ink Shell Cordovan Short Boot

Bone cordovan tall boot

Marvielab 2012: Cumbini

The theme for Marvielab’s annual, 2012 collection centers around the concept of combinations. Thus, Cum+bini (Latin etymology for the term 'to combine') focuses on the combining 'by twos' as the foundation of the creative process both in the collection's fabrics as well as its designs.

T-Shirt: Combining dress shirting front panel with the comfort of a cotton jersey

that overlaps the shoulders providing a beautifully placed contrast in materials.
Patch pocket design provides flexibility, so the shirt can be worn as a cardigan.

The fabrics, developed exclusively for Marvielab and the new volumes unveiled for the 5 ongoing projects unveil her deep exploration in the deconstruction and reorganization of classic wardrobe staples with an ongoing study of form and function. Construction is elaborated upon from a design perspective and materials favor natural materials with trans-seasonal flexibility.

L-Jacket, T-Shirt, ReCkili T

The concept of Cumbini is expressed by combining pieces and their contrasting details. The pairing of fabrics for different layers or matching the contrasting details of the outer layer, with the fabric of the interior, creates a functional expression as the collection of fabrics are mutually integrated among the different Marvielab projects.

High Neck T-Shirt

The materials have been developed to be a cohesive extension and are principle factors within the concept of this body of work, with the final aim of advancing the idea of the clothed body and its reflected image.

ReCikli by MarvieLab: AW/12

The latest of designer Mariavittoria's undertakings is the aptly named project ReCikli: a limited edition offering, developed alongside the ongoing Marvielab clothing projects. Unlike the other projects that adheres to the gender specific presentation of norm, ReCikli was presented by itself, as a stand-alone unisex offering.

Hooded Coat - composition: Wool/Linen (70%/30%)

The idea behind ReCikli is to revisit some of the most interesting materials from the label's archive of collections passed and to reinterpret them in new forms. Once finished, the pieces undergo a series of treatments and over-dyeing techniques that change the properties and textures of the materials, giving the garments a more seasoned appearance, while paradoxically breathing new life into the textiles. The 7 unisex patterns developed for this project are an interpretation of deemed essentials inspired by conjured imageries of home, of cherished garments faded by years of continued wear.

Heavy Jersey T-Shirt - composition: Cotton/Wool (60%/40%)

Each style is offered in only 3 sizes that are adjustable to the wearer's preference in fit and proportion with various systems of closure (buttons, hooks, elastic bands, drawstrings) and stitches that enable the garments to be customized to different lengths. At the edges of the garment there are a series of stitches and elastic bands, designating possible new hems. The wearer can cut to preference, below the line of stitches in order to enable the stitching to contain the fraying that will naturally occur at the edges.

Heavy Wool Jogging Trousers - composition: 100% Wool

The hooded coat: Reminiscent in its details to the work that drew a cult following for the highly experimental and equally favored Linea project. The coat is drawn closed with overlapping lapels which create an asymmetric line, via a hook/eye system. The open seams underscore clean lines, enhancing tactile qualities of the composition found in the collection's selection of fabrics. The greatest of which we feel is the wool/linen fabric for its heavy texture (as featured in the hooded coat) and the heavy wool for its structure (as shown in the jogging pant).
Due to the limited nature of the fabrics used, the pieces are produced in a very limited run. The total number of all ReCikli AW12 pieces produced is a combined 93 articles worldwide. All of which are numbered and produced in Perugia, Italy.